Hello and welcome to my latest post – I hope you’ve been enjoying my little updates and projects! Today marks the start of a new series of blog posts that I’m undertaking, kicking off with this one, the simple ring band.
It’s been about 3 months since I came back to the fascinating art of making jewellery. I’m loving every moment – there are just so many techniques to learn, and so many different ways to apply them! I have to admit, I’ve chopped and changed a little bit between silversmithing and wire wrapping. It’s mainly driven by how much time I have and whether the children are in bed / school or not. I’m not proposing to change that. There are times (like now, when the kids are on Easter holidays) when I just can’t get out to the workshop. However, I am planning to give myself a little more structure, particularly on the silversmithing front.
Two-in-One Manuals – Jewellery
I’ve recently come across this book:
It’s called “Two-in-One Manuals – Jewellery”, written by Madeline Coles. I saw it recommended on a jewellery forum, and unfortunately, it looks like it’s out of print. However, I managed to pick up a second hand copy from Amazon for about £12 – lucky me! I’ve never seen a book structured like this – the pages are divided in half. The top half sets out the projects, whilst the bottom half sets out the skills and techniques that you need to be able to make the projects. It’s brilliant as you can quickly flip back and forth to check the technique information, without losing your place in the project (which really was a gripe for me!). Have a look:
There are 23 projects in total, covering lots of different types and styles of jewellery, as well as covering techniques such as soldering, stone setting, resin, beading and filigree. So I’ve decided to work my way through all the projects in the book and would love you all to join me along the way! I’ll include a detailed description of all the key steps in my blog post, and post a link to the accompanying video that will show you how I get on with it! Hope you enjoy it, and as always, let me know what you think in the comments!
So, here we go with Project 1 – a simple ring band!
Tools
- Basic jeweller’s toolkit (saw, soldering torch, heatproof mat and block, tweezers, emery papers, files, pliers, pickle)
Materials
- Half-round sterling silver wire
- Hard solder
Overview
At this point in my learning, I’ve made quite a few rings (I cover the basics for measuring under Steps to Measure a Simple Band Ring). As I’m going back to basics, I was very diligent with my measuring filing and took extra care to saw on the “waste side” of the line that I marked onto my wire, as it suggested in the book.
After annealing and pickling, I set about bending the wire – the book mentions the use of half-round pliers. I must admit, it was a good reminder for what to use the half-rounds for. I’ve mostly been using the flat-nose pliers for everything (I know, I know… it sounds obvious now!). Go gentle with the pliers – I didn’t and left some fairly deep marks and scratches on the metal. The silver is really soft! A good tip that I’ve since been told is to cover the pliers with masking tape. I will be trying that on my next project!
Filing the Ends
After my first attempt to make a flush and tidy join between my two wires ends, I still wasn’t happy that it was sufficiently flush. So, I actually annealed and pickled my ring again as I was struggling with the wire hardness by this point. I suspect a more experienced jeweller would have had no problems with this… but I guess, it’s all about practice!
Another tip from the book (and I’m likely to have been told it before, but forgotten!) was to saw through the join after you’ve matched the ends up. Apparently, this helps to make sure the ends are exactly flush. So I gave it a go.
After my second attempt plus sawing through the join, I got a join that looked like this.
Hand on my heart, that’s the best join I’ve ever (had the patience) to manage!
Soldering the Ring
After that, there was another new technique for me to try with the soldering. Up until now, I’ve been laying the ring on its side and placing a piece of solder over the top of the join. The book instructs you to hold the ring vertically in a set of reverse action tweezers or a 3rd hand in order to join the ends together. I’m not sure why this way is better, but overall, it was a pretty quick job of soldering the join together. Perhaps someone can let me know in the comments!
I made a right mess of it, mind you… Although the solder flowed, it didn’t seem to flow into the join. So I had to add another piece of solder and give it another go. And whilst, it worked the second time, there was a lot of excess solder.
File off the Excess Solder
After filing off the excess solder and shaping on a ring mandrel, this was my join.
I know it’s not perfect, but I cannot begin to tell you how happy I am with it! Or maybe I can – below you’ll find a photo of the spinner ring I made a couple of weeks back, next to my current ring.
In the spinner ring, not only can you see the solder line, you can also see a gap at the bottom where the two ends were not flush with each other.
On the silver band, you can just about make out where the join is.
Taking My Time with Polishing & Finishing
With the ring soldered together, it all became about the finish. I spent a long time removing the scratches that I’d introduced from the pliers. Honestly, I must get better at not doing that in the first place! I used a needle file and worked my way through various grades of emery paper. On reflection, I’ve been starting with emery paper that is much too coarse for my work. I suggest that you start from 500 or 600, not with 240 like me!
I then used my Dremel pendant motor to polish with Tripoli and rouge (this was my first time doing that), and I have to say, it made a big difference to the brightness of the ring. My final step was to go around the whole ring with a burnisher, for the final finish. And here it is!
Hands down, this is the best ring that I’ve made. I think I’ve managed to avoid all the really obvious beginner mistakes that I had made, such as not annealing often enough and damaging the metal when it was work hardened. I really enjoyed going back to basics, and following along a project from a book as it took out my guess work and “winging it” attitude when I’m trying to create my own designs. The “Two-in-One” jewellery manual is an excellent resource, so far, with clear pictures and instructions – if you can get hold of a copy, I’d recommend it!
So that’s me for this week. I hope you enjoyed this week’s project, and that you’ll join me next time for Project 2 – Russian Wedding Band.
Your band looks really good. It’s a heck of a lot better than my first one, or second, third and maybe fourth. I never use the pliers to form my ring except to line the ends up after I form it round on my mandrel. I saw someone or read about doing it that way somewhere so it’s not my original idea, but it works for me. Like you cut thru the join I also try to add 3-4 mm to what I need and once formed I over lap with the band laying flat. I mark both sides and cut from the side again not my original idea. I learned that from the UK dude A. Berry.
You know I’m finding out real fast that jewelry makers are all unique. If you put 20 of us together I bet that not 2 in the crowd would use the same technique. Most will do the basics the same but by doing things just a little different a person is unique in what they do and produce. I always keep my eyes and ears open and, since I started I’ve changed my ways. It’s little things, I’ve picked up a thing or two from you so far. I can’t wait til you get to a Gemstone Ring. You’ve got talent my friend. I’ve got a little talent and a lotta heart for the hobby. I would never try to get into the profession. I think you’ve got the heart and talent to do it. Maybe not this very moment but before long.
You Keep up the good work friend.Again your band looks professional.
Gem’Man’ology Man
Hi Gem’Man’ology Man,
Thank you so much! I’m glad you’ve managed to migrate over with my new website!
I think you’re right… I need too try not to rely on the pliers. I hold them way too tight and make marks all over the metal. It’s terrible! Ah, I’ve just watched Andrew Berry’s videos about making rings – going to try that technique (I have made a complete hash of my current project!)
I feel really reassured when you say that all jewellery makers are unique. I spend a lot of time second guessing myself and wondering if someone will tell me off for doing it wrong! Haha!
Thank you for your very kind words! I’m still going, even on the days when I want to hide under the duvet! Lol! Glad to hear from you! Keep an eye out, I have an extra post coming out tomorrow (if I start and finish it today…!)
Best Wishes!