Copper, Jewellery, Making Jewellery, Techniques

How I Made My First Copper Wire Jewellery Ear Wires

My new tools and materials arrived a few days ago. I purchased them from Cookson Gold, who were super quick at getting these things out to me, despite the current UK Covid lockdown! My children went to bed at a sensible time, leaving me for a couple of precious hours to myself. So I settled down with a cup of tea (very English of me, I know) and my copy of the Wire Jewellery Masterclass by Abby Hook. I received a this book as a gift a few years ago, but only now have the opportunity to give it a go. I’m starting with the first project – making wire jewellery ear wires!

For my first project, I’ve opted to learn wire jewellery, for a number of reasons. Firstly, I’ve never tried wire jewellery before. Secondly, I have a book that I’ve never used. And thirdly, I can bring the tools and materials needed into the house, without worrying about my children playing with chemicals or soldering torches. It’s a big worry of mine!

I’ve also decided to work in copper for a while. I’m quite out of practice with making anything at all, so copper seems like a good material to start with. It’s far cheaper than sterling silver and a harder material, which means I need to have more patience! Speaking of sterling silver, I looked at the price of silver the other day… I can’t believe how much it’s dropped in value since the last time I bought any!

Kicking Off My First Project in 7 Years…

So now, cup of tea to hand and tools laid out, I’m ready to start my first project in 7 years! I’m kicking off with making the first item in the book – simple ear wires, but I’m planning to jump onto a wire wrapped bracelet soon after… I mean, it all looks fairly straightforward… what could possibly go wrong??

Tools (from left to right): Round-nose pliers, Flat-nose pliers, Nylon-jaw pliers, Flush-wire cutters, file and 20-gauge copper wire

So, how wrong was I? A couple of days ago, I had been through some of my old jewellery stuff and found some copper wire. Of course, I thought “great!” when I measured it and figured it was 20-gauge. I didn’t need to buy any new copper wire for my first project…

This evening when I sat down to look at the wire more closely, I realised that it’s actually copper-coated iron. I must have bought some crafting wire to play with. I’ve no idea what this will do to a piece of jewellery long-term. But the show must go on and I’m desperate to make something!

Feeling Out of Practice

I followed the step-by-step in the book (which I’m not going to replicate here, because it’s not mine to share, really). However, I have realised that I’m really, really rusty… I struggled with cutting the wire – yes, even cutting the wire! Check out my video below, if you want proof! My first wire ended up a little flattened, and I ended up trimming off the bit that was beyond repair. So what I’ve ended up with is two slightly different sized ear wires… see if you can spot the difference further down the page.

Then straightening the wire… why did I think that would be straightforward?! Once my pliers were out, I remembered why I never liked my pliers in the first place. They stick and are quite hard to press together… so I think this might be my first upgrade! Recommendations would be gratefully received. And, I’ve just been reading through my old posts and realised that I’ve already raised this point before! Again, check out my video if you want to see just how tricky the technique can be or at least was for me (especially for short pieces of wire). But I persevered and I ended up with relatively straight pieces of wire.

I found that forming the loops and bends in the wire was reasonably straightforward (maybe I’d gotten the hang of the pliers by this point).

My Big Reveal…

And so, here’s my final pair of earwires (I don’t wear earrings, so I have no idea if these are comfortable or not, but they look more or less like the picture in the book).

wire jewellery ear wires

Actually, scrap that… I’ve just looked at the picture in the book again and realised that my loops have been formed the wrong way… which I probably would have realised if I wore earrings… D’oh! I’m going to have to do a “Take 2” in a few days’ time! Whoops!

In the meantime, I’ve just started my first steps into a YouTube channel (find my channel on Silver Jewellery Girl). I’m hoping to share videos of all the things I’m learning to make, including mistakes, frustrations and complete and utter failures (like this one!)… because I truly believe that mistakes are part of the learning process (including how to film with your hands in the right place and without shadows behind them… sorry!). Please do enjoy (or laugh at) my first video attempt!

Bye for now!

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6 Comments

  1. 22antonio777 says:

    Are you sure the wire is 20 ga.? It looks heavier. Then you ring out it’s not copper but copper plated steel. It’s no wonder you were having a hard time of it. I could definitely tell you were struggling at a few points in the video. I couldn’t tell any difference in them. Couldn’t tell it at all. I’m excited for you getting back in the swing of things with a great DIY hobby. You’ll be able to make some money if you decide to sell your stuff. I won’t sell mine. Lol. I figure when I’m gone my son and grandson can do what they want to do with the stuff I make.
    Do you do gemstones to? I’m more of a Gemologist than Metalsmith. I buy parcels of 50 to 200 carat loose Gems. Then I Identify what stone is what. I have quite a bit of ID tools. Refractometer, microscope, Spectroscope and a lot of smaller Tools. It’s a challenge.. Wow I better go, going to run out of room to type anymore. Do you still need suggestions on pliers? Good Luck and looking forward to seeing more jewelry. A wise person knows,, if you don’t make mistakes, you aren’t doing anything. We just gotta learn from them.BTW,I’m registered for webpage there where you are. Gotta figure out how to do it..
    .@22Antonio77

    1. silverjewellerygirl says:

      Hi, no, it definitely wasn’t 20 gauge! I’ve bought some now, and it makes a world of difference!

      Thank you for your kind messages 🙂 I like reading them!

      I haven’t gotten into gemstones yet – I’m a bit nervous if I’m honest. Although my husband is encouraging me to do some more research into them. I’ve been thinking longer term about my own jewellery style and have some ideas of styles that I’d like to incorporate. E.g. I used jade beads in my first couple of wire projects because I grew up with a lot of jade jewellery. Perhaps you can suggest me a book on gems? It sounds like an interesting way to pass some time away! And yes, please, if you have some suggestions for plier upgrades, I’d love that!

      Best Wishes!

      1. William says:

        I thought the wire looked bigger than 20 gauge. The stuff looked very large, like maybe even 12 gauge and I know it was tough when you told me it was copper plated steel. I think it may have been big enough for a Stacker ring. If you have any left that would be good practice material for ring bands. Do you ever look or buy any tools or supplies from eBay or Amazon?? That’s where I buy 90% of everything, my tools, silver, copper ebooks from Amazon haVe been a big help. I have a particular set of pliers I consider a must have set. I’m even expecting another set in the mail from eBay. They are hard to describe but I’ll do my best. They are 5 inch long ,have leaf spring, they are Flat nose but the nose is only 1 1/4 inch long and about a quarter inch wide. The handle grips are fantastic, very comfortable and they handle great because of the size I guess. I got them for around $5.00 US. But I’ve seen them on Amazon also, just a bit more $$$ there. I will post a photo of them and some of my other pliers on Twitter, also let you know where I bought and type they are. I bought a set of flat nose larger than the ones I recommended and they have the Nylon/Plastic Jaws. Don’t waste your money on that kind. I’ve hardly used them and the nylon is cracked and worn. The replacement nylon jaws are ridiculously high cost. Near $5.00 US. Then I have my custom made, most had teeth and I ground them down smooth. It you haVe a Drexel rotary tool, Grinder or even a good file I’m sure you could make your own. I even made a pair for bending ring bands. They are the flat nose but the nose is long like needle nose. The bottom jaw I just rounded a bit and upper jaw is ground and file with half round file to make it concave so when there closed there naturally curved for bending. I use them a lot. I’ll put photos on Twitter as soon as I get time.
        I started with two books About Gemstones. One for ID’ing Gemstones and one about the properties,crystal structure,colors an where they come from,price, just all about the Gemstone itself. It’s no help identifying. But, if you are going to identify them you need this info so you know what to look for. Here are two I would highly recommend.#1 This was my first and it’s fantastic. Gem Identification Made Easy by Antoinette Marlins and A.C. Bonanno 3rd Edition. I think the 5th or 6th edition is out now but if you don’t want to spend the money on newest edition this will work fine at about a quarter of the price . #2 This would have been a good first book. Handbook of Gem Identification by Richard T. Liddicoat Jr. 11th Edition. This author was President of The Geological Institute of America, GIA. Very well known Institution. Both books tell you what tools you need to get started and how to use them. Also tells you what to look for in the Gems but kind of limited to the well known(few) Gemstones. That’s where this book would be handy. GUIDE TO GEMS AND PRECIOUS STONES comprehensive entries on all major Gems and Precious Stones, 450 color photos. Author Curzio Cipriani and Alessandro Borelli. Whew what a name.I have Ebooks from Amazon that I, think I can share or let you borrow. I would need to check into it..
        Well I’m closing this comment up my hand are tired from typing so much.lol.
        GemMan’ology Man

        1. silverjewellerygirl says:

          Hi!

          Thank you for the tool and book suggestions. I will look into them.

          Yes, I do use Ebay and Amazon, although I’m UK based, so perhaps I’ll need to find an alternative supplier. It would be great if you can send me the links, when you have time. I’m on a bit of a shopping spree, with my re-found enthusiasm for making jewellery!

          Best Wishes!

  2. William says:

    I didn’t think it would post a comment that big.lol I hope you can and do incorporate your designs. That would really be exciting, Also I ask if you looked or bought from eBay. If you do go there and look I can get the seller name and item number for you on the pliers I recommended. Just let me know.

    1. silverjewellerygirl says:

      Hi! Yes I do use eBay. The seller name or item number would be handy, as it’ll give me an idea of what to look for in a good set of pliers! Mine are really very stiff!

      SJG

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