I decided to have a go at setting a stone into a piece (probably not one of my better ideas, since I can barely control my soldering, but try I did!). So, here’s an overview of my first time setting stones in a bezel setting!
I got a lovely 12x16mm oval turquoise cabochon from Bellore. It wasn’t anywhere near as costly as I thought it would be (but I have very little to compare to).
I decided to make a bezel setting for my stone and found a great set of five videos on YouTube, made by Art Jewelry Magazine: http://youtu.be/BoxGqYEj5I8 (09/04/2021 Update – Unfortunately, I’ve just found out that Art Jewelry Magazine is no longer in existence, but as at today, the YouTube channel is still online and the bezel videos are still there! Hurrah!)
To make the bezel, I set about measuring around my stone with a post-it note and a ruler. I cut out a piece of fine silver (first time I worked with fine silver and it really is much softer!). I made sure the silver was straight, hitting the edges with my raw-hide mallet against my anvil. All straightened out, I filed the ends to make sure I could get a good soldering join. Then solder (I have to say, my solder is looking much better than a few weeks ago. I’m really glad that I’ve persevered with it and that my husband forced me to keep practising that tricky filigree ring!).
Then the moment of truth – fitting the bezel to the stone. After several minutes of working the bezel around the stone – disaster! I realised it was too small and no amount of wiggling was going to help me! I even got my husband to check for me (him being much wiser!), who agreed – that turquoise was not going into its little frame!
So, I started again. I measured the bezel wire in exactly the same way (then added a couple of millimetres, just in case) and followed the same steps. It was probably good practice! This time, it worked! I got the bezel to fit! Hurrah!
Then I set about making the rest of my pendant – more practice with soldering filigree scrolls onto my pendant frame. I carefully measured out the place where the stone was going to be placed. Then I textured around that spot. Finally, I was ready to solder the bezel to the pendant! So, I pickled the piece, and put some little squares of solder on the inside of the bezel. Then I used a hot flame (trying not to melt the fine silver) – lucky for me, I got success on the first time! Well, almost… the solder join was really neat, but the bezel had moved, and I didn’t know how to straighten it up… so on I ploughed!
Bezel soldered on, I popped in the cabochon and then used a bezel roller to push in the edges. It was at this point that I realised that the bezel was too tall! So I tried to file down the edges, but I think it was too late – since it was already soldered on, and the cabochon was firmly attached on the inside. Never mind – I’ve decided it wasn’t a terrible first attempt for my first stone setting, but I’ll let you decide for yourself (why not leave a comment and let me know?)
Ok, so the bezel is a little wonky and definitely too tall. But I’m quite pleased with what I accomplished! You’ll have to excuse it a little as it’s not quite finished – I haven’t polished it, drilled a hole for the bail or made a chain yet, but it’s definitely taking shape and it does look like the picture I sketched. All in all, quite pleased and had a lot of fun setting a stone! Now to practice some more… !
